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When I got home, Precision was working and both clients were running at 60% using both cards. After some reading on the folding forum, I enabled Aero and both clients jumped to 99%- i7, W7.

http://foldingforum.org/viewtopic.php?p=164927#p164927

 

I'll get the next batch of parts ordered this weekend. :banana:

Edited by uncle fuzzy
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Thats good UF. SO whats the PPD?

 

The only issue I have right at this moment, is dropping into 2D clocks.

Does it out of the clear blue, I think its a driver issue with the new

low power garbage. So far can't find anything to help turn it off.

 

Going to do a new install shortly, so I am not going to worry a lot.

 

Later :geezer:

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OK, the parts are here. The current issue is the lack of instructions for the water cooler. They were out of the straight Swiftech kit, so I got this one- same block, pump, and radiator.

http://www.crazypc.com/products/PX93800.html

 

I'm going to email them about the lack of instructions, but in the mean time, does anyone have a favorite link on how to set this puppy up? This is a very expensive build, so I'll be taking my time on it.

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not a bad video,

 

don't cut the tubes to short!! you can always make them shorter, but not longer. ;)

 

i built and tested mine out side my system first for 24 hrs to check for leaks and to get rid of air, obviously if your routing it through your case so rad is on the outside then this option is not really feasible to you because you'd have to take it apart again to get the tubes slotted through the back.

 

never let the pump run without water going into it while filling loop.

 

optional but i also used some ptf tape( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread_seal_tape ) on the fittings threads, not to much (2/3 times round thread) making sure it doesn't go too low on the thread and cover the opening or have any chance of getting into the loop, don't over tighten the fittings, i use finger tight with usually 1 or 2 turns with a small spanner to get them tight without using any real force if needed. all my fittings are compression fittings so i don't use ties or clamps to keep the tubing on them.

 

then i fitted it into the case and onto the cpu, and tested it again for 2 hrs for leaks without any power going to anything except the loop, i have an old psu i used to power everything on the loop, with a pin going from the green wire to the black on the 24 pin power connector so the psu turned on.

 

hope that helps some.

 

lots of other videos in case you need more :- http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=building+a+water+cooling+pc&aq=f

 

you will need to keep an eye on water level, because it will need topping up occasionally.

 

:b33r:

Edited by terry1966
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Thanks terry. I did find a basic guide on the Swiftech site, but more information is always good, especially when doing something for the first time.

 

This kit has a 5 1/4" bay mount tank, so I know where I'll be putting that. The radiator will be on the outside. The only other component is the pump, and I'll do a lot of dry fitting before I decide on that. I should have plenty of room with that HAF X.

 

I figure I can hang the mobo with a few screws to get the tube length, then pull the board out to fill/purge/run the system for a couple days. Once I conquer my fears, and don't see any drips, I can build the system around the tubing.

 

I hope the efficiency of this thing meets my expectations. My goal for the 980X is 4.6GHz under 80C. :banana:

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  • 3 weeks later...

48 hours into the leak check without a drip. I still have some fine bubbles in the tubes, but the res level hasn't dropped in 24 hours. I used the Swiftech suggested routing of res->pump->rad->water block->res.

 

I started wiring it up around the tubes, and hope to have it running in a few days.

 

terry, should I be concerned about the bubbles?

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I never tried H2O on computers. But in all other operations I have used

it, I would worry about any air bubbles. They don't have bleeder valves

for them?

 

:geezer:

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These are very fine bubbles. I've read several instructions that say the "microbubbles" will work their way out of the liquid. There is no vent, per se, but air can leave the liquid as it passes through the reservoir. All the major voids and bubbles are out of the system. I just have these little ones clinging to the inside of some of the tubes. Most are on the pump suction, which is the low-pressure area of the circuit, so where I would most expect air to come out of solution.

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no don't worry about the micro bubbles they will work their way out to the res over time, what i do is gently tap the tubes to get rid of them as they build up, for the first few days.

just as long as there's no air locks in the rad or block then everything should be fine. :tup:

 

:b33r:

Edited by terry1966
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Thanks, guys. You just reinforced the plan I was working with. After getting the lines filled and the voids and big bubbles out, I filled the res to the top to compensate for additional bubbles. Right now, 2 1/2 days in, there are very few bubbles in the lines and the res is right around the proper level.

 

I've got this thing in a rather tight location, so I'll let the pump keep running while I install the rest of the system, until I have to start spinning the case for cable routing. It will still get good air flow to the rad, I just won't be able to move it much once it's finished.

 

I have a bay-mount res, so checking it is easy, but how often do you need to add coolant? It only took 2/3 of a quart/liter/litre to fill, so I have some left for adding later. I assume it's best if you stick to the same coolant unless you drain and flush the system, so I need a hint on when I should order more. I'm using PC ICE clear. It was the add-on coolant with the kit I bought ($20).

 

Starting with 8 feet of tubing, I ended up with about 8 inches left. In hindsight, as I get more things installed, I could have used a couple more inches on a couple of the lines just for routing/fit ease. Nothing is kinked, even when I slide the res out the front to add coolant, so I didn't do too bad for a first time system. I had to drill mounting holes for the radbox to avoid drilling bigger holes for the tubes, so a few of the I/O port connections will be tight and I may not be able to make the monitor connection to the card in slot 1.

 

This has been an interesting and enjoyable project, but unless the results are spectacular, I don't think I'll be going back to retrofit any existing systems. This is quite a bit more expensive than the top heat sinks out there. The 930 went from 2.8 to 4.1 with a Megahalem and stays under 80C. The 950 hits 80C at 3.6 using the stock HS that came with the 980X. I only managed to OC one of the Q6600s, but it's at 3.4 and 60C using an AC Freezer 7 Pro. I think a new HS for the 950 will be the only near-future upgrade for me.

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there is no hard and fast rule for how often you may need to top up, just when needed is all i can say.

 

yes stick with the same stuff unless you do a complete drain,clean and re-fill.

 

i just use distilled water and a drop of biocide in my loop.

 

think i bought 3 litres, 2 years ago for my loop and still have just under 1 litre left, even after a complete refill(should of stripped everything for a good clean and put new tubes on, but couldn't be bothered, next year maybe.) :lol:

 

post some pics and give us the temp readings and oc when everything is burned in. :tup:

 

think that 980 runs a cooler than my 920 or your 930, so would think you'd be looking at max temps of around 70C(same as [email protected] with a triple rad) at highest stable oc, whatever it is, with quiet fans, depending on ambient of course.

 

much lower if you don't mind the noise and want to put screamer fans on it, but i like my peace and quiet so only use noctua nf-p12 fans. :lol:

 

that's the good thing about watercooling, you get the same results as the best air cooling but without the noise of those high speed fans, and if your not happy, you can always add the high speed fans in a push/pull config. for optimum cooling.

 

:b33r:

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Hit a small snag as I was installing the PSU- the molex cables are too short for a clean routing. I just rush ordered some loooooong extensions, but this is gonna put me back a few days. The motherboard has a 4-pin aux PCIe power connector that would make me use one entire cable to reach it, routed between the top gpu and the NB cooler. I'm getting a 24" extension that will let me route it under the gpus between the PCIe slots and the back of the case. I figured I'd better add power to the connector, since I'll be starting out with 4 gpus. Since I spent the money on the parts and water cooling, I want this to be the cleanest build I've ever done. My goal is to get an "ooh, that's pretty" from terry when I get some pictures of the finished box. ;)

 

I need all the molex connectors because I like fan noise. I can't sleep if they aren't whooshing. I hook all my fans directly to power to run full speed. :snooze:

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FANS? You are supposed to power them? I thought you just put them at the top

and let the heat out. They spin, though rather slowly. HHhhhmmmm. I'll have

to check up on that.

Think thats why its 95 in here?

 

:geezer:

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I got my cables on Friday evening, but had to work 12 hours on Saturday. I still got most of it wired Sat. night, and finished it up Sunday. Many hours today installing the OS, drivers, updates....

 

Initial results-

 

For some reason, this defaulted to 2.6GHz on startup instead of the 3.33 it should have been. I bumped it up to 3.4 and ran 3 hours of StressCPU2. Idle was 20C, and full load made it all the way to 40.

 

I figured I'd take the chance and set up my clients. For the moment, this has 2x 460s, spaced out and folding at 45C. I'm not sure what I'll end up putting in here as I retire the old boxes- probably 3 or 4 450s or 460s. I'm leaning towards 4x 450s with these 460s going in a Q6600.

 

I started the SMP client with -smp 10 and -bigadv. I've got just enough time to watch the first frame, or 2, before I have to crash.

 

I'll be back with numbers, temps, and pictures in the next week or 2. It's only 50% pretty, so it's not ready for any closeups, yet. I'll also be working on the OC.

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I was a little early on the happy thoughts. After I powered up, I started having to add coolant several times a day. It took a while, but I finally found slow drips from both fittings on the radiator. I cranked them down and stopped the leaks, but I now have slight twists in the tubing. I'll take it all apart and re-do it when I take vacation at the end of the year.

 

The initial 3.4 was not stable. The machine crashed very shortly after I turned off the monitor at the end of my last post. I went back in and started over. I updated the BIOS, hoping it would give me the right default settings. It did, so while I was in there I thought I'd goose it a little. I'm currently set at 3.85GHz (133x29). Running a 6900 with -smp 10 it's at 50C. Frame time is 27m 08s for 43575 PPD.

 

I'll try for a little more speed this weekend. I've been reading that the 980s are very touchy about the voltage, so that will probably be the limiting factor, rather than temperature. Most of what I read said 4.0-4.2 was about the top.

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you should only need to top up a little about once every couple of months in my opinion,

glad you found those leaks and they never caused any damage, you were lucky. :D

 

every cpu is different when it comes to ocing, so what i would do i think is set a voltage limit you won't go over, say 1.35v, then work up to it,

if you get an overclock that your happy with below your max voltage all well and good but if you hit your max voltage and still haven't hit an oc your happy with then i'd say not to worry and learn to be happy with whatever the max stable oc is you achieved at the max voltage setting.

 

i run at 3.8ghz, not because i can't get stable higher but because in my opinion i need too big a voltage increase(along with a jump in temps) to achieve it and i'm not happy running 24/7 at over 1.375v, i think it'll shorten the cpu lifespan more than i'm willing to accept,can't afford a new one.(just guessing no data to back it up but at least my mind rests easy. :laughing: ).

 

:b33r:

Edited by terry1966
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I'm all over the place with my OCs. It's been far from scientific or systematic. Pretty much, I just change something that makes the cpu operating frequency go up, and if it doesn't crash the system, it's good. Some day I'll have to go through all of them and do it right, but I'm afraid of loosing what I have.

 

[email protected]

216X19

QPI 3888MHz

1.376v

temperature limited at 80C, Megahalem w/ 2 Scythe 110cfm in push/pull

 

[email protected]

172X21

QPI 3096MHz

1.36v

temp limited at 80C, using the stock Intel cooler that came with the 980X

 

[email protected]

133X29

QPI 3184MHz

1.258v

I haven't hit my limit, yet, water @ 50C

 

I'll find those references that mention how voltage limited the 32nm die is and post them. I don't want to push the 980 until I do more reading. I think they said don't go over 1.28v, but I don't remember for sure. I think I set the 930 voltage manually, but the others are in auto.

 

edit- I don't know where I saw that voltage comment. I just Googled and people were posting running up to 1.45v. Current big WU finishes tomorrow morning, so I guess I'll try another small bump then.

Edited by uncle fuzzy
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