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About gizmofish

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  • System Specifications:
    ASRock 939dual SATA2 MOBO >( AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ Manchester Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Saphire ATI Radeon 9600 256MB DDR AGP 4X/8X Corsair TwinX 2048-3200C2PT XMS DDR 400 SDRAM Samsung T133 series HD300Lj 300GB SATA3 x2 Maxtor 300GB Ultra ATA 133 IDE LiteOn DVD +/- RW 8X Memorex CDR / RW 50x Turbolink 500W PSU SBLive Platinum pushing 110 watt / ch Kenwood power amp ( Me like LOUD music) ;} XP pro sp2
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  1. It has been a serious hobby for several years now. You could say I'm an advanced amateur. I shoot with a Nikon D100. An old but reliable camera. I also have a Nikon N80 film body but it doesn't see much action anymore. I have seven lenses, a Markins M10 ball head on Manfrotto legs. Plus more accessories than could be listed with any brevity. My avatar is a pic of mine. This little guy was 4mm mandibles to tail: 6mm over all. Nikon rules! Canon (not Cannon BTW) make excellent cameras and lenses. But don't overlook Sigma and Tamron lenses. They are excellent quality for much less
  2. A well proven lens you'll enjoy. Neil
  3. What you are wanting is one of these A cheaper alternative for a very good lens would be this one The image/optical stabilization is worth it but non IS / OS versions are also available. Neil
  4. You have ask the $64.000 question my friend. You'll soon discover that is all in the "glass". It makes little difference what camera body you get, how many megapixels it has (over 4 anyway) or how many features and modes it has. It all comes down to the lens. There are many parameters to what a quality lens is. Focal length (18mm - 55mm) it the very least of them Maximum aperture is the most important factor. Aperture is also like a golf score: the smaller the number the better. Glass lenses beat plastic every time (only recently a problem as canon has taken to selling "kit" lenses th
  5. Very cool! I can understand the screen. Limits trolling. Neil
  6. A lot of people on this site are avid upgraders. They, surely, have "tested" components they would like to find a home for. I, personally, can't afford what I can imagine and would love to find "lightly used" parts to support my habit, er, I mean hobby. Neil
  7. mme & Duanester; I back to report that the problem has been solved. No, I didn't do a clean install. I found two problems: A service called "FLEXnet licensing service" (which has something to do with Photoshop) and a startup program that I have been using since I built this box! AMD_DC_OPT.EXE. A vid card optimizer from AMD. Weird, huh! I just didn't want to leave you hanging with out knowing of some kind of resolution. New Pit test and HDTach: IDE SATA Thanks for getting me started in the right direction! Neil
  8. Yea, it's worked well till now. Unfortunately I'm not in a position to replace the full system right now I need to fix this one. I dragged an old IDE drive out of the closet and I'm going to try to load XP on it and see if it will set up and run. It's only 20GB but should provide a good test. OOPS that drive is bad. wouldn't format. Oh well..... I still think my problem is a services or driver problem. Neil
  9. Hey Duanester I just located some SATA power adaptors so I can try pulling power from the old 4 pin (molex?) style connectors. I have a free bundle with two connectors that I can try but the only SATA power connectors are the ones I'm currently using. I can't see any swollen or leaky caps on the board. One of the thing that bugs me is that it will (and has) run for hours in SM and has never locked up. I understand that in SM the system isn't exactly being taxed but everything that can run does. Right now i'm in sel start up mode again and going to try to see if I can defrag all my
  10. here are my smart readings I got this from the PC guide web site: # -12 V: This voltage is used on some types of serial port circuits, whose amplifier circuits require both -12V and +12V. It is not needed on some newer systems, and even on older ones not very much is used, because the serial ports require little power. Most power supplies provide it for compatibility with older hardware, but usually with a current limit of less than 1 A. # -5 V: A now archaic voltage, -5 V was used on some of the earliest PCs for floppy controllers and other circuits used by ISA bus cards. It i
  11. point 1) Breaking my array wouldn't be the end of the world. All of my important stuff is on the IDE drive. What is on the RAID are my PVR files: TV and movies. Eminently replaceable, and my windows installation. point 2) Please elaborate. I know I can see the voltages while in BIOS setup but nothing about monitoring them otherwise. point 3) PSU Hmm..... I'll investigate that possibility I have a question regarding the -12V and -5V? Point 4) I have monitored my temps running speed fan and checking the reading at the time of the lock ups. all were in the lower end of their
  12. So...I 'spose I should get a USB external drive, copy my files to it, break the RAID, and test the two drives independantly. If both drives check okay start shopping for a new MB. Sound about right? Neil
  13. I've got tune up loaded and I'm going to attempt to run it in SM first Neil
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