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Anti-Spyware Brigade
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Everything posted by terry1966

  1. come on rob tell us where your problem was? bad dns server, local network eating up bandwidth etc. etc. it took you long enough to find even with the experts you have access/can call on to help diagnose things for you. so i am dying to know what the cause was in the end.
  2. looks to me like they may be throttling your connection, what's comcasts fair useage policy and have you or anyone in the home been downloading lots.
  3. http://www.tenforums.com/browsers-email/16900-reverting-ie8.html best thing i'd guess is to try viewing the sites with ie11 but in compatibility mode and see if that solves your problem. http://windows.microsoft.com/en-gb/internet-explorer/use-compatibility-view#ie=ie-11 if not then i'd guess the next best work around is to run an older os that uses ie8, eg. win7, in a virtual machine running on the win 10 os.. probably the best vm software would be either virtualbox or vmware, plus of course you'd need an install disk of windows 7. virtualbox :- http://www.oracle.com/technetwork/server-storage/virtualbox/downloads/index.html vmware player :- https://my.vmware.com/web/vmware/free#desktop_end_user_computing/vmware_workstation_player/12_0
  4. really don't see how that follows the same logic, or any logic really. lots do then again lots don't, but i'd offer the same advice to you as indy, use and enjoy it by all means just don't think it's a cure everything program for any/all a pc's problems because it most definitely is not. personally i'm a lot more interested in what the problem was with rob's slow, fast, slow connection problem in the first place, he must have finally figured it out otherwise he wouldn't be able to get someone to write a piece of software to stop it happening in future. my best guess is some software/wifi device hogging all his upload bandwidth at certain times. ooops missed tomks post in between, so added quote at beginning for clarity/continuity.
  5. if you believe that, i sure hope your job's not pc repairs. pcmatic cures nothing. it's just a one stop piece of software that does a simple bit of regular pc maintenance on a schedule, personally i wouldn't even say it does a particular good job at doing even that but lots of others disagree with my opinion and swear by it. i've nothing against people buying and using pcmatic if they don't want to spend the time learning a little about their pc's and then using free software or built in os software to do exactly what pcmatic does to keep things running smoothly but please don't kid yourself that pcmatic is a one stop cure for any problems your pc may be experiencing because it's most definitely not.
  6. curious but how can you fix it if you don't know what's causing the problem in the first place? not more snake oil i hope.
  7. mine was reaction time of a 22 year old. 328 milliseconds. think they needed a better/larger test sample seeing how i'm 50 with what i'd say were slow reaction times. tried again and got the message "we're not sure if your an actual human being" reaction time of 279 milliseconds.
  8. from a quick read personally i don't think there is a speed issue except for the fact it's probably your isp throttling your connection at certain times because of their fair usage policy. just for info, if your max internet connection speed is 50 Mb/s download then that is 6.25 MB/s because there are 8 "b"its in a "B"yte and is the absolute maximum data transfer speed you'd get. it doesn't matter if a pc is connected to the router by 100MB/s or 1GB/s lan connection or by wireless with say a 300MB/s connection, the extra speed bandwidth will only come into play when transfering data between 2 pc's on your local network and not when connecting/transfering data to/from the internet. so the speed meter reading of 275MB/s is most definitely possible but only between 2 local pc's and has nothing to do with your real internet connection speed of 50 Mb/s. my internet connection download speed is 16Mb/s so when i download a large file say a linux dvd iso of about 4GB i get a speed of around 1.9/2 MB/s and it takes about 40 minutes. :- here's a direct link to opensuse's leap dvd iso which is 4.3GB in size :- http://download.opensuse.org/distribution/leap/42.1/iso/openSUSE-Leap-42.1-DVD-x86_64.iso see what speed you get when you download it.
  9. try going here :- https://steelseries.com/downloads and see if you need to install a new driver for windows 10 before they will work, if no luck after installing latest software/drivers then i'd just contact their support and get them to help solve your problem.
  10. looks like i posted the wrong link for cpu hierarchy chart or they changed it so here is a link to new chart :- http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/cpu-hierarchy,4312.html and here's the graphics card chart :- http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107-7.html
  11. good choices in my opinion and he'll be very happy with it i promise. there really isn't anything that makes any other suggestions much better and it's not until about the $800 mark that you'd be able to buy anything that much better (with an i5 cpu) than what you've chosen in my opinion. just for info, there really is nothing wrong with amd cpu's, yes they may not be the strongest/fastest compared to intel cpu's when it comes to benchmarks etc. but in everyday use they do offer plenty of performance when on a budget and makes using the pc a pleasure, that fx6300 cpu for instance is in the top 3 tier's of gaming cpu's according to the list here :- http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/gaming-cpu-review-overclock,review-32901-5.html i'd put money on it the reason the i3 seemed quicker was because that pc had a better/faster hard drive or more memory, maybe even just a faster internet connection and had nothing or very little to do with the different cpu's. i could build you a very very fast pc, almost instant response to a mouse click and you'd never know it used amd cpu's and graphics.
  12. yes got to the usa site eventually myself and thought i was onto a good thing with slightly better parts for $539 then when i went through the configurator and saw it didn't include monitor like in the picture or os then the price sky rocketed. so the newegg pc and monitor options look like the best deal for the money in my opinion. was looking at this one myself :- https://www.cyberpowerpc.com/system/AMD_Quad_Core_Configurator
  13. just a thought bh/caintry seeing how ez said you could configure your cyberpower pc i thought i'd visit the site and see what i could come up with close to the $500 mark for best bang for the buck including monitor but being in the uk i get to this site :- https://www.cyberpowersystem.co.uk/system/CYBERPOWER_H110_CONFIGURATOR where everything is only in £'s and not $'s. so maybe one of you can configure the best pc possible for her from the usa site. then post what you chose so she can go and order it from them, maybe cheaper than newegg for instance or same price but better hardware choices.
  14. nothing wrong with anything you suggested bh and your correct about everything you've said about gaming performance, etc. but like i said biggest thing to remember is he's coming from a laptop so everything is going to be good to him to start with. we all want to spend more on our kids to give them the best but sometimes costs over rule. $600 was a stretch so i think mum would be happier trying to keep closer to the $500 and i really don't see the son being dissapointed and the upgrade card can then also be something he can look forward to later next year. ps. i also changed the pc link from a fx4300 pc to a fx6300 pc (more money.) that you may have missed before you posted bh.
  15. what is important to remember is that like anything everything is a compromise when cost comes into the equation. brownhornet is a big gamer but also can afford to spend a lot more on his equipment so expects a lot better performance than most people would be happy with. seeing how your son is starting off from a laptop, which is the lowest of the low for gaming usually. in my honest opinion a pc like this :- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883230100 and a monitor like this :- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824025098 would be such an improvement on his gaming that he would be very happy and so would you without having to worry about over spending on your budget. another thing to remember is that pc's are upgradeable once you have one, so later on you can keep the case and upgrade things like the power supply, motherboard and cpu, ram, graphics card, etc.etc when money allows later next year or when he feels the need for better performance again. eg:- http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1670091 when you can afford it probably the first thing i'd upgrade is the graphics card to something like the gtx 750ti (or better.) bh mentioned :- http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=gtx+750ti&N=-1&isNodeId=1 maybe make it his next years birthday present.
  16. not an audiophile and probably a bit tone deaf so i never had a real problem with sound except it not being very loud or being able to set certain programs to use output devices. i'd probably look into using jack for audio, try not installing pulseaudio, maybe changing your hardware profile/output settings, (probably need analoge 5.1 or something.) maybe try using vlc backend instead of gstreamer, etc. etc. sound quaility is a personal thing so can't really help you on what will make things sound good to you, all i can suggest is google and experimentation really. for example i think sometimes i get better sound quaility using kaffeine instead of vlc, maybe there is no difference and it's just me. some links to help get you started. https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Sound_system https://en.opensuse.org/SDB:Sound_concepts https://en.opensuse.org/SDB:Audio_troubleshooting http://tedfelix.com/linux/linux-midi.html just listened to that vidio using my usual tv as output and then with my headphones, seemed to me like headphones win hands down for audio quaility.
  17. see if this helps :- https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=ru&u=http://shpargalki.org.ua/191/chip-Fintek-F71868AD-under-linux&prev=search so try modprobe f71882fg force_id=0x1007 then see what shows up when you run sensors again. apart from that i can find nothing to help with the no driver (to be written.) for the Fintek F71868A chip.
  18. lm-sensors is a service you start in yast. yast, system, system services and then highlight lm-sensors and then click on the enable button near bottom left to enable it and then click ok to save. run sensors-detect and then modprobe the drivers eg for mine Driver `coretemp': * Chip `Intel digital thermal sensor' (confidence: 9) Driver `adt7475': * Bus `NVIDIA i2c adapter 3 at 2:00.0' Busdriver `nvidia', I2C address 0x2e Chip `Analog Devices ADT7473' (confidence: 5) Driver `it87': * ISA bus, address 0x290 Chip `ITE IT8720F Super IO Sensors' (confidence: 9) it found , coretemp, adt7475, it87 so modprobe them and then when i ran sensors it showed the info you saw.
  19. sensors and lm-sensors is what i use, sorry don't know of any other programs. Now follows a summary of the probes I have just done. Just press ENTER to continue: Driver `coretemp': * Chip `Intel digital thermal sensor' (confidence: 9) Driver `adt7475': * Bus `NVIDIA i2c adapter 3 at 2:00.0' Busdriver `nvidia', I2C address 0x2e Chip `Analog Devices ADT7473' (confidence: 5) Driver `it87': * ISA bus, address 0x290 Chip `ITE IT8720F Super IO Sensors' (confidence: 9) Do you want to overwrite /etc/sysconfig/lm_sensors? (YES/no): y Copy prog/init/lm_sensors.init to /etc/init.d/lm_sensors for initialization at boot time. You should now start the lm_sensors service to load the required kernel modules. Unloading i2c-dev... OK Unloading cpuid... OK linux-oh2g:~ # modprobe adt7475 linux-oh2g:~ # modprobe it87 linux-oh2g:~ # modprobe coretemp linux-oh2g:~ # sensors coretemp-isa-0000 Adapter: ISA adapter Core 0: +34.0°C (high = +80.0°C, crit = +100.0°C) Core 1: +32.0°C (high = +80.0°C, crit = +100.0°C) Core 2: +37.0°C (high = +80.0°C, crit = +100.0°C) Core 3: +31.0°C (high = +80.0°C, crit = +100.0°C) it8720-isa-0290 Adapter: ISA adapter in0: +1.04 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +4.08 V) in1: +1.50 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +4.08 V) in2: +3.12 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +4.08 V) +5V: +2.85 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +4.08 V) in4: +0.51 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +4.08 V) in5: +3.01 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +4.08 V) in6: +0.03 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +4.08 V) 5VSB: +2.90 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +4.08 V) Vbat: +3.22 V fan1: 0 RPM (min = 0 RPM) fan2: 0 RPM (min = 0 RPM) fan3: 3534 RPM (min = 0 RPM) fan4: 0 RPM (min = 0 RPM) temp1: +44.0°C (low = +127.0°C, high = +127.0°C) sensor = thermistor temp2: +31.0°C (low = +127.0°C, high = +127.0°C) sensor = thermal diode temp3: +51.0°C (low = +127.0°C, high = +127.0°C) sensor = thermistor intrusion0: OK
  20. sim location on that phone. :- found this topic that says there is no sim in that phone, so just turn on airplane mode to turn off network and then turn on wifi and try. :- http://forums.androidcentral.com/lg-optimus-series/321854-pre-paid-verison-lg-optimus-exceed-good-wifi-only.html
  21. i assume all that happens when connecting to a windows pc, seeing how i don't even have a windows pc or to be honest use any manufactures software or register an account with them, (even a google account) on my phones unless i need to then that's probably why i've never seen any windows related stuff on an android phone.
  22. ok removed sim and just did a factory reset on my sony phone, and erased everything so it's not got any accounts or anything else on it. then on start up still without sim i run through language and choices etc until i get to main screen, then i go into settings and disable mobile data and connect to my wifi network. now i try and go to google playstore to download the voip app i require of course it says i need to add a google account, after doing that i can then install a voip app and use the phone only by voip without putting any credit or even the sim in the phone. didn't actually go that far and install a voip app though because i don't need any apps so don't even connect this phone to any accounts and just use it for texts and calls. so thats how i'd guess you can use it without activation, once i insert my sim it restarts and again i need to run through some settings where i can choose things like use mobile and wifi or just wifi data options and location services etc. etc. the sim in this phone though is on a free contract where i get 100 mins talk and 1000 sms a month free as part of my tv package so no idea what steps i would have gotten on the pay as you go sim, but i guess once activated you'd never need to put money on it again if only using voip also you'd have a telephone number so people could call you and probably tie that phone number to your voip app too.
  23. didn't even know there was a windows driver folder on android phone, never seen one myself. just shows how much i know about android phones. with my phones nearly everything i can disable is disabled, no idea what most of the stuff is for anyway, but i have no background services, no location services, no backup services, nothing to do with google except google games i believe because i needed it for ring tones, etc. etc. so about the only thing they are used for is sms and phone calls, battery does last a week or more on standby though before i need to charge them. does this link work for you nigsy? :- http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/jp52681/media/snapshot14_zpsjtma07e8.png.html
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