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About heofthedark

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  • Birthday 01/18/1967

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  • System Specifications:
    Gigabyte EP35-DS3L, Intel Core 2 Quad Extreme 3.0GHz, 8GB (4 x 2GB) Performance Enhanced Mushkin DDR2 800MHz, NVidia 9800GX2 DDR3 1GB Dual GPU, CoolerMaster Real Power Pro 1000W, CoolerMaster CM690 Case, CoolerMaster Drive Module, 2 x 750GB Seagate 32MB Cache, Logitech G15 Gaming Keyboard, Logitech G9 Gaming Mouse, Windows Vista Ultimate 64. ASUS G70S Gaming Laptop Intel Core 2 Duo 2.5GHz, 4GB DDR2 667MHz, Dual NVidia 8700GT M 512MB in SLI, Dual 320GB in RAID 0, Windows Vista Ultimate.
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  1. G'day shotrock Can you advise more details of the of the external drive unit (brand and model)? Is it a drive that has software on it (e.g U3) Have you attempted to delete the device in the device manager, reboot and let the system start the driver installation again? Assuming this is a USB connected drive, it should simply be plug and play... is this correct? Keep us informaed of your progress. Thanks and regards
  2. Firstly, if you can post a test it would be helpful knowing the hardware and OS that you are running. If the PC is fairly new, check to ensure that you have all your receipts etc and I suggest that you start keeping a log of the lock-ups as proof to your local PC shop. List the events including what applications were running at the time in a similar method as you have described in your post, dates and times as well. It may be that you will have to leave the PC with them for an extended period of time for them to give it a full rebuild. Are you hardware savvy? If so, try disconnecting individual hardware items to see if you can isolate the problem as a hardware issue. If you are not confident to do this then it is most definitely better for you to leave it your local PC shop as you do not want to void any warranty. Lock-ups are able to be caused by either hardware and/or software including combinations. Has your local PC shop formatted and re-installed the OS? If not, this may be a good starting point after ensuring that you have a correct back-up of your data first. Again, if you are confident to do this yourself it is a good way to ensure that you fully understand your PC though if not, please leave it to the people with more experience. Alternatively you could uninstall your software one application at a time to determine it is a software issue though a format and re-install is a better and cleaner option. I hope this helps and please post back any results, positive or negative, that you experience as it will all help to determine the cause. Thanks
  3. Regardless of whether the HDD shows in My Computer, it should read in the BIOS and it should read as Master/Slave. Obviously the Master HDD is showing fine, check and/or replace the cable. If you have another HDD, try it as a test comparison.
  4. According to this link, the run command is for your start menu startup applications and the load command is for the OS profile. Cheers
  5. Are you still using your faulty PSU? If so, do you have another PSU to try? If not, check the connections again including the power switch then start it with the side cover/case off to see if the actual motherboard power indicators light up, assuming that you are referring to the external power and HDD lights in your post " I can tell the power supply is functioning as it should because the lights flicker when I flip the switch on it.". When it powered up the first time, did you see a post screen? Cheers
  6. I know that I don't have the fastest. . . but this is fun anyway. http://pcpitstop.com/TechExpress.asp?id=A4MSFW9AFFWSQKEJ :beer:
  7. I have never heard of "bleeding colour" but we have two 19" LG Flatron LCDs here and both are great. No problems, no issues, no dead pixels... it's all good. :beer:
  8. This is the only page that I could find that showed any internal views. Gateway Support :beer:
  9. First check how clean the internals are... dust bunnies can cause a lot of heat problems. P4s always generate a substantial amount of heat so make sure you have clean fans and especially a good one on the CPU. Having an intake and extraction fans are also ideal to keep a lid on the temps. My wife has a P4 2.6 GHZ, 4GB DDR RAM, Albatron AGP 256MB Video which, in the original slimline case, used to over-heat on a regular basis. We got a new thermally advantaged case and she has never had an over-heating issue since. :beer:
  10. FYI. You don't need to have SP2 installed. Driverguide has all the USB drivers you require for USB2 for XP without having SP2 installed. :beer:
  11. check if there is any IE start up reference in spybot tools. if so, delete it, go to google , set it and lock it in spybot.
  12. If you have faulty RAM, it can cause boot issues. (Just people trying to help in here. Many people, many ideas... food for thought) I agree, try a reformat and re-install... you've nothing to lose except a bit of time.
  13. Is it an optical mouse? If so, do you use a mouse pad? If you have an optical mouse and either don't use a mouse pad (preferably cloth covered style) or use a reflective mouse pad, this could be the problem as a reflective surface can cause havoc with optical mice. :beer:
  14. You can also try Avant Browser, it is a little more memory intensive but easier on the CPU (not that you need worry about that). Another thought. . . what version of Sygate are you using? Version 5.6 and higher had a conflict with XP and the smc.exe. I use version 5.5 and have had no issue.
  15. I just had another look at your Pit test. Your fragmentation is quite bad, how is now after you have defragged? What defrag program do you use? Your test result also shows a disabled device. TIP > Device or Driver Problems According to Windows, the devices and/or drivers listed below are not enabled: RAID Controller [problem code 28] A disabled device does not always indicate an error, but is a good place to start if you are having problems with a device. About Disabled Devices TouchStone's DriverAgent has the right driver for thousands of PC devices. A device might be disabled for several reasons. You may have intentionally disabled the device because it is not needed, or because it conflicts with another device that you want to use. Windows may have disabled the device because a driver was not available, or because the device required resources that some other device already had claimed. For information on the meanings of the problem codes, see Microsoft support document 310123. From the link. . . Code 28 The drivers for this device are not installed. (Code 28) Recommended resolution To install the drivers for this device, click Update Driver. This starts the Hardware Update Wizard. Check it out and let us know if it helps. Cheers
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